Secret Bamboo Forest of Fushimi Inari Shrine
Fushimi Inari Taisha is popular for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which draw more tourists than any other temple or shrine in Kyoto, Japan. However, if you go off the beaten path, you can find a secret bamboo forest that rivals the famous Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, and without any crowds. In this post, we’ll share photos of Fushimi Inari’s bamboo forest, how to get there, and also offer info about continuing on to hike up Mt. Inari trail.
I want to stress that we don’t think this is the best experience for a first visit to Fushimi Inari Shrine. Walking this path to the Secret Bamboo Forest bypasses the wow-moment and grandeur of seeing thousands upon thousands of torii gates. For a first-timer, those are much more impressive than the bamboo forest, as cool as it is.
Rather, this is a great option for someone who has already been to Fushimi Inari, or something you do as a last resort if you go to the shrine in the middle of a day on a weekend and cannot bear the crowds. By following this path, you’re assured a no-crowds experience. We want to underscore that the “secret” in the post title is not clickbait–we’ve yet to see anyone else back at the bamboo grove, despite it being so close to the torii gates. Want in on the secret? Here’s what you do…
Start by walking past the gate, main shrine, and continue by ascending up to the start of the torii gates as normal. Once you arrive to the start of the tunnel of torii gates, instead of walking beneath and through the torii gates, walk outside of them to the right.
You’ll notice a path off to the side (the start of the path is pictured below), which runs pretty much parallel to the Senbon Torii and goes directly to the bamboo forest in under 10 minutes of walking.
Along the way, the main tunnel of torii disappears from view behind a hill, but they main grounds of Fushimi Inari is still fairly nearby. It’s actually a bit surprising just how close you are to the shrine, yet so far away from the crowds.
After only a couple minutes on this path, you’ll pass a restroom, which is also accessible from the path of torii gates (so you could start out on that, if you want). From there, it’s a relatively straight path that leads directly into the bamboo forest.
If you’re not in the midst of bamboo within 10 minutes, you somehow managed to get lost, so retrace your steps and try again. No further directions are needed–this is really easy to find once you know what you’re looking for, it’s just that no one looks for it, I guess.
While this path through the bamboo forest is not nearly as long as the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, for me it is superior because of the solitude it offers. Our stay in Kyoto last fall was during peak tourist season, and there were many times I wanted to escape the crowds (that’s actually how I discovered this in the first place).
I took this path many times then to bypass the Senbon Torii, and always loved listening to the tall bamboo stalks rustle in the wind. There’s a distinct sound they make that’s somewhere between leaves in a breeze and wind chimes, and it is sublime. I feel like an audio ‘relaxation’ track of bamboo rustling could put me to sleep in about 20 seconds flat.
But I digress. The point is that what the Fushimi Inari Secret Bamboo Forest (I’m capitalizing that to make it the official name 😉 ) lacks in size as compared to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, it makes up for in the quality of the experience. There is something truly special about being alone under the bamboo; it has a magical quality that feels straight out of a Ghibli film.
By contrast, there is something uncomfortable and stressful about fighting the crowd in midday in the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. In its defense, the grove in Arashiyama is also magical before the crowds arrive, around sunrise. While I’d definitely recommend seeing both, Fushimi Inari’s Secret Bamboo Forest is a great alternative if you can’t get to Western Kyoto.
Within Fushimi Inari’s Secret Bamboo Forest, there are a couple of sub-shrines, each with their own torii gates. This should come as no surprise, as Fushimi Inari Taisha is said to have over 30,000 sub-shrines. In any case, the torii gates against the towering stalks of bamboo makes for an incredibly photogenic scene.
I do have to reiterate that it strikes me as odd that no one is ever here. One of these sub-shrines looks like it was recently (within the last two decades) refurbished, and has modern steps and nice handrails.
It’s slightly jarring to see this old shrine that appears like it was recently remodeled to comply with some sort of accessibility code. (But to what end? Is this “Secret” Bamboo Forest actually a popular spot and I’ve just missed the hordes? Or perhaps it’s big with ghost hikers who use handrails? I’m truly not sure what’s going on here.)
Obviously, the Secret Bamboo Forest is not an actual secret. That is, unless the worn trail, torii gates, stone steps, and other developed components of the area were all made by enchanted woodland critters. While that is certainly a delightful best-case scenario, it’s likely that humans are back here from time to time.
Nevertheless, the point stands that you’re unlikely to see other visitors back here, much less be shoulder to shoulder with them. As far as Kyoto points of interest go, this is the closest to a “secret” that you’ll get.
Once you’ve had your fill of the bamboo grove at Fushimi Inari, we’d recommend turning around and taking the normal path. This is especially true if you’re doing this on your first visit to Fushimi Inari.
While I enjoy this hike as a repeat visitor, I like it as a way to enjoy crowds and see a rural side of Kyoto–it’s not even a fraction as pretty or cool as the pathway of torii gates. With that said, what follows is what we do after strolling through Fushimi Inari Shrine’s bamboo forest.
Basically, we hike to the summit of Mt. Inari. At the beginning of this process, we go through what are clearly unpaved country roads in a fairly agrarian part of Kyoto.
You’ll see old cars, scrap metal, and other stuff. During this part of the hike, you might have a “do I belong back here?” sense, but you’re totally fine. I’ve done this hike many times when Fushimi Inari is slammed with tour groups.
You’ll also see friendly locals walking their dogs. At first, they might be taken aback that a Westerner is out in the middle of nowhere, but everyone we’ve met has been friendly. This area is in no way dangerous, and there are also farmers and pockets of natural beauty, too.
After walking along these back roads and pathways for a bit, you’ll meet up with a hiking trail that starts somewhere down in Inari. This area contains a lot more bamboo, and parts of it look almost like a nursery where it’s farmed. In any case, it’s pretty, but not in the same way as the earlier forest.
This trail offers a dedicated hike to the summit of Mt. Inari that does not take visitors through Fushimi Inari Shrine. There are nicely paved sidewalks, steps, and trail-markers at this point, so that much is clear. The problem is that I can’t find a single English resource to which to link that offers a detailed hiking map, and I’m about the worst person ever to offer hiking advice.
In other words, proceed at your own risk. (There’s not really any risk, per se…other than getting briefly lost.) A trail map is not really necessary, since the path is well-marked, and you want to go to the summit of Mt. Inari. If for some reason you miss the markers, just remember that you basically just turn left at every junction.
Along this hike, there are several other sub-shrines, a couple of which are quite sizable and elaborate. There are also some glimpses out over the city, including a pretty clear view of Fushimi-Momoyama Castle.
I’m not sure how to rate this hike in terms of intensity. The first part is relatively easy, but the end has a lot of narrow and relatively steep stairs with a number of switchbacks. The hike should take 30-45 minutes total, with the last 10-15 minutes being all steps. On balance, I’d call it moderate.
Once you’re done climbing those steps, you’re pretty much at the summit. This trail dumps you out in the summit loop trail, just as if you hiked up through Senbon Torii and along the main path of Fushimi Inari. From here, you can head around the summit loop trail and down to the lookout point pictured below, which offers a stunning view of Southern Kyoto. I’ve spent many a sunset on the benches overlooking the city here.
Overall, I think Fushimi Inari’s Secret Bamboo Forest is absolutely something you should seek out and find, especially if you enjoy no-crowds experiences. Most people probably should not continue on with the rest of the hike. I’m assuming that if you’re reading this, you’re a first-timer at Fushimi Inari, and the hike is simply not the best way to experience the shrine. Whatever you decide to do, you’ll likely have an awesome experience–it’s difficult not to at Fushimi Inari Shrine.
If you’re planning a trip to the Japan that includes Kyoto, we recommend starting by consulting our Ultimate Guide to Kyoto, Japan to plan all aspects of our vacation. You should also check out our other posts about Japan for ideas on other places to visit!
Your Thoughts
Have you visited Fushimi Inari? What did you think of the experience? Did you head off the beaten path of the shrine to see any sub-shrines? Would you consider checking out the Secret Bamboo Forest if you visit Fushimi Inari? Any thoughts of your own to add? Hearing your feedback about your experiences is both interesting to us and helpful to other readers, so please share your thoughts or questions below in the comments!
This was actually the first route that I took upon going to Fushimi-inari. We walked through the gates a bit and came back down and turned onto this path. We absolutely loved it and were able to pass through all the gates on the way back down. We i read all over the internet how crowded fushimi-inari was, I was shocked because the path we took was void of anyone else.
We were taking a taxi via apps, with my family, and many luggage with us, the taxi dropped us at kazamidori or near kanshuin, because of my wrong pinpoint in the app. We took shortcut, pass the sign restriction area, we entered it.. pass the 命婦瀧 , or a shinto shrine. We’re so sorry we did that. Ended up at bamboo forest on right side and resident’s house on the left. Finally we reached daisu chaya n felt so relieved from getting lost.
My son and I went up today at 6am, no crowds, barely any people until we returned back to the main shrine at 8am, where it was a sea of umbrellas (rainy day). Have you ever come across the monkeys? There are signs everywhere for monkeys and boars and warnings of them being in the areas. A little concerned going off path for that reason.
Been there today. I can only say: don’t go there during summer season. We’ve been attacked by a scarying amount of mosquitos. Last time i went to Fushimiinari was early in the morning in spring. That was the best experience ever. Can only recommend. 🙂
Hi Tom, thanks for the amazing tip! The day before we visited Arashiyama bamboo grove and although we agree that the ‘hidden’ forest isn’t as spectacular, the solitude experience makes up for that! Following your instructions it was easy to find the place and indeed we were the only ones at this part. In fact, that brings me to suggesting others to take care of mosquito repellent, since the path was swarming with mosquitos (september) and we were the only warm blooded beings around, contrary to the torii path at that time 🙂
Thanks for this, I did the first part of the path today and it was amazing! Few things, at least as of today, seems like they have blocked the path for constructions/renovations with a big sign but this is after the main part of the Bamboo forest, or maybe I took the wrong route. (There was a separate left route but seemed to be hiking in the bamboo forest itself, not sure that was the right route)
Another thing is i think your first photo is a bit harder to follow, would suggest the easiest is to take the first tunnel that has 2 directions (one for up and one for down), and when you get to the small square that says bathroom to the right, that can be the start of the trail.
But overall, great insights and I love the bamboo forest, I might even say due to the secluded nature its nicer than Arashimaya!
Thanks for the report–too bad about the construction, but at least it’s after the main section of the bamboo forest. I’ll have to figure out if there’s an alternate route to the top from there.
they cut down alot of the bamboo tho.. kinda sad
Thanks Tom for the off the beaten track tip.
Did the hidden bamboo route! Really easy. After de main gate and climb the stairs, in the middle of the first tunnel, exit on your right and do the road next to the runner. After 60 meters, you will the the restrooms. Leave the restrooms to your right. Walk 5 minutes.
Thank you for sharing this! It was one of the highlights of our visit in Kyoto – and the directions were perfect. Just listening to the birds and wind, and not being able to hear any of the hustle and bustle of the main paths was a joy.
Hello! thank you for the wonderful directions! I am going to Kyoto in about two weeks and was curious if I could hike from the Torii gates path up to the summit but take the alternate secret route to descend? I am a solo-female traveler so I just wanted to get an idea because I do enjoy my tranquility and would love to appreciate the nature of Fushimi Inari minus the crowds.
Yep, that works too. I think it’s a tad more difficult to find the route from the summit, but it’s totally doable.
Hi Helen.
I just wondered if you did exactly this in the end? I was thinking of doing the same as the Bamboo grove here would be a much nicer experience without the crowds! 🙂
We visited Inari for the first time in 2005 and we were amazed by its beauty. The crowds were not as dense as they are these days. We returned september 2014 to find too many people there to enjoy the place. Funny thing is that we turned left at the first intersection instead of right to find a path through the forest up the mountain as well. It wasn’t just bamboo though but a variety of species of tree. We were the only ones there. The path led to a cemetery with shrines. We saw a few monks about to take a bath in a small onsen building. They seemed surprised to see us there.
We’re returning to Kyoto in november of this year and are looking forward to visiting Inari at night…
Hi Tom! I have been lurking on your website a lot lately to plan my trip to Kyoto, and my partner and I finally made it to Fushimi Inari today. I insisted that we try and find the bamboo grove, and although he was skeptical, we found it (after backtracking when we accidentally walked into a neighborhood instead) and was rewarded with a completely empty, beautiful bamboo grove. Thank you for sharing this hidden gem!
Hi, it’s good that you found the place! If you could make a simple instruction or guide starting from Inari Station or the main gate, that’d be lovely! I wanna try it next month!
Your instructions clear and the crowds did in fact disappear. I had such a moment walking along the path, took some video footage so that I can replay over and over when I am back home given the sound of the bamboo clinking.. every so lightly in the breeze. It has been very hot this month and this only reiterated my need to return to walk and be in nature. I see that there is a lantern there for those that return at dusk. It was magical. Thank you <3
We visited the Secret Bamboo Forest today after being inspired by your write-up. In fact, we did the main tourist route up to the top and back and then sought out the forest. It was a great quiet place. We only went up to the Bamboo and back again but that was well worthwhile. We would recommend whole-heartedly. Thanks for the tips!
You’re welcome–hopefully you had a great trip despite the weather!
Hihi… i’m also intending to do the normal route first before going for the secret bamboo forest route… May I know how long did you take for each of them both ways? Thanks!!
It’s really going to depend upon how fast you move, how often you stop, and what the crowds are like. If you were just to go as quickly as possible (not advised) with zero crowds in your way, it might take 45 minutes to the top.
Honestly, that’s just a guess. I’ve always taken a leisurely pace, stopping to explore, take photos, etc. For your first time, I think a more realistic time is about 90 minutes to the top.
Great writeup. This looks awesome!
Thanks–it is awesome!
The first time I was up here, I decided to try a side path down the mountain, and was surprised at how quickly the crowds fall away and you are completely, utterly alone. It was spooky and surreal – I totally get the Ghibli film feeling. Next time I’m going armed with a map or pre-downloaded GPS data, though.
After my first visit to the bamboo forest, I searched and found a couple of blog posts about hikes to other temples that go through Fushimi Inari. I never attempted any of those as they were a bit longer than I wanted to do, but I think it’s cool that they exist and I’d love to do them someday.
Hi, Tom. Thanks for the write-up.
Can you try to draw or make a simple instruction started from the Inari Station or the main gate to this bamboo area? I’m scared I might get lost as I can’t spare too much time here.